RUNNING WITH WILD HORSES - WITH CAROLINE DUMUR

HOW DID YOU START IN PERFUMERY?

I was lucky enough to be trained internally at International Flavours & Fragrance (IFF). With this intense program, I first learned about raw materials, basic accords, and the classic creative schemes of perfumery. I had the honour to have Anne Flipo as a mentor and I feel very lucky to have shared this time with her. Although I now create independently, I still like to talk through my creations with her as her thoughts are always very precious.

WHICH RAW MATERIALS DO YOU LIKE TO WORK WITH THE MOST?

I love them all! But if I had to choose some, I would say the joyous colour of rose, the sensuality of jasmine, the comforting smell of good bread, and the elegant sillage of orris.

TALK US THROUGH THE CREATIVE PROCESS FOR FORTUITOUS FINLEY.

I immediately felt inspired by the character of the horse, of this elegant and powerful animal. It conveys an image of majesty and to me, it is strongly linked to Arabian horses and the Middle East. The green juice and the idea of this very sophisticated animal strongly inspired the fragrance, so I chose to craft my fragrance around salted pistachio, a dark, powerful patchouli, and the rather soft-but-intense suede side of violet. ​

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE EVOLUTION OF THE FRAGRANCE AT DIFFERENT STAGES?

​The fragrance begins with a spicy blend of anise seeds, black pepper and cardamom, providing an unexpected burst of freshness. This captivating opening evolves into an addictive heart of pistachio and matcha. The fragrance then transitions into a contrasting leathery and woody base of patchouli, velvety violet, and saffiano leather, culminating in an enhanced sophisticated and warm final impression.

WHAT WAS THE RAW MATERIAL YOU FOUND THE MOST CHALLENGING TO WORK WITH?

They are all challenging, but everything depends on the creation process. Sometimes the animal notes are a bit more difficult but it’s all about dosage, balance, and the right combination of raw materials. In the end, the most interesting challenge of all is the readability of the fragrance: the intention and the part of ourselves that we put into it. ​

ARE THERE ANY INGREDIENTS YOU HAVE BEEN OBSESSED WITH LATELY?

Not particularly, though I would highlight orris for its velvety, powdery, and distinctively sophisticated woody nuances. ​

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HOW DO YOU APPLY YOUR FRAGRANCE?

I like to perfume my hair to leave a trail and smell it again and again. But when I create a perfume and want to test it, I always spritz my arms to be able to sample the fragrance and monitor its evolution correctly.

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION OUTSIDE OF SMELLS?

Inspiration is everywhere! Nature is one of the strongest sources of inspiration for me, but it’s also about everything else that surrounds us. Our environment, the people we meet, our conversations… sometimes the idea happens while formulating or when trying new raw materials combinations. There are no rules to inspiration, only freedom and sensitivity!