HEAD IN THE CLOUDS – WITH GERGEI ERDEI

We sit down with designer, Gergei Erdei, to discuss the inspiration behind his exclusive creation for our newest scent, Solaris.

Penhaligon's

For the arrival of one's newest scent, Solaris, Penhaligon's are delighted to have commissioned former Gucci womenswear designer and interior expert, Gergei Erdei, to create a limited-edition scarf in celebration of the celestial fragrance.

Setting up shop in London, Gergei Erdei owns his own design studio, focusing on home décor and exquisitely unique accessories for one's abode. Upon the creation of Solaris, Penhaligon's knew instantly that Gergei was the perfect person to design our exclusive scarf – with his work so closely tied to zodiac iconography throughout the decades.

DISCOVER SOLARIS
Penhaligon's

You once remarked that ‘creating a collection is like making a perfume’ for you. How so?

Yes exactly. I think in a perfume everything needs to harmonise or work coherently. It's a story locked in a bottle that makes people react differently.

The way I design any collection is also about telling a story and is about giving you tools through everyday objects to transform your home to be part of a different universe. In a collection, or even just on one print design, the elements need to work in a balance. The colours, and even the fabric, plays a big part in the final printed artwork. Certain designs work well on a linen but won't work on a silk twill. Then the presentation, packaging and campaign is also adding more layers to the story, so does the music you choose, or the typography on your label. These are all tiny ingredients that need to work together to get that final scent to your perfume or collection.

You frequently weave zodiac iconography into your designs, would you say that astronomy or philosophy inspire you?

I am inspired by many periods, from Antiquity through to the '30s, '70s, and recently even the late '80s. For some reason you can always see astronomical and zodiac references throughout these significantly different periods. I like how timeless they are and that there is something mythical around them. I try to create a library of recognisable motifs that can identify my brand, and zodiacs are definitely part of this.

What was it that drew you to create an exclusive scarf with Penhaligon’s for their latest fragrance, Solaris?

Solaris is very powerful yet summery scent.

It's fun, energetic, but it's not heavy. I wanted to create a scarf that is a covetable statement item and not just a promotional product. I love vintage silk scarves and I wanted to create a design that slightly reminds you of '40s and '50s print styles, when these scarves were a big hit. I also did a slightly Renaissance-style artwork to make it less usual and a bit more Penhaligon's. The design features an oversized sun motif that refers to the name of Solaris, framed with a trompe l'oeil border inspired by neoclassical architectural friezes. The base tone is ivory, and the pattern has antique gold hues which make this a timeless and very-easy-to-use piece.

How would you adorn the limited-edition accessory?

It really depends on you. Personally, I love how Queen Elizabeth II wore her scarves on her head while hunting. I think if you wear this on your head with a white t-shirt and vintage denim that could be a very cool French Riviera style. Or, just fold it and pull it through your belt loops to use it as a belt. I love the golden hues with a nice stone-washed vintage denim, so denim is my big suggestion. If you want to style it in a more elegant way for the summer, you can wear it as a turban for the beach with a black swimsuit, pearl, or gold earrings. It works really well with emerald green tones too.

What was your creative process when designing the scarf?

When I design something I always think about wearability, and I want to make sure it will be something that people actually would like to have. I did an existing research on different sun motifs - looked at the wooden panels of Versailles through Renaissance illustrations. I also researched many architectural drawings as inspiration for the border. To be honest, I usually have a clear idea about what I like, so I make a few sketches and from those I can choose final directions quite easily.

The artwork is all hand drawn by me, and it took roughly a week to make it print ready with all the editing.

You recently released a collection inspired by Hollywood homes of the 1970s. What time period are you most influenced by in your work?

I usually like to layer different periods. I have a love affair for antiquity because I used to live in Rome, but I am also really into chinoiserie and East-Asian motifs, which I used a lot in my latest collection. I think my works are really about the effect, and to make an instant impression. These days I am really into the late 80s brutalist movement. I tend to make every collection coherent with each other, and you can see a story line if you look at the visuals on my Instagram. I think as a creative it's important to have a language you speak, and notes people can identify with you, but I also believe that you need to be open for new things and you can't always go back to the same inspiration. I always come across new impressions, so of course my work, and even my personal aesthetic, will change every now and then.

Gergei Interview

Looking back at your phenomenal catalogue of designs, Gergei, what piece would you say you’re most proud of?

I always love every piece that I launch. I never publish any designs that I wouldn't like to use around me. I am proud of my whole brand because I always strongly believed that I can launch something that is different within the homeware market, and I can curate the designs with a more "fashion" trained eye because of my background in womenswear. Whenever I speak to an interior designer or architect, they always point this out even if I don't bring up the topic, and it's always the best feedback when industry people understand what you do. If I need to choose one item, I would say the cushions are the greatest pieces because they are one-of-a-kind on the market, and they instantly uplift your interior. It's always hard to create something that has a commercial awareness but is covetable and comes with an artistic flare, yet functional.

As a London-based designer, where do you find your inspiration in the city?

In London I go a lot to the Victoria and Albert, The British Museum, and to fairs like Frieze and Pad. London is a great hub for research because there is always something happening in galleries. Phillips always does amazing furniture auctions. There are also many great vintage stores where I sometimes do print research.

I think it's always helpful to be in a place that is very different from what inspires you. At an instant glimpse we can say that London is very 19th century, so definitely not 1970s Beverly Hills.

But this difference helps the brain to invent something fictional, almost a fantasy. You often think about something more creatively when you don't experience it, however, I found the Oliver Messel Suite at The Dorchester which really gave me a lot of colour inspiration for my latest collection as it has the perfect Hollywood regency palette with notes of Chinoiserie and a big amount of theatrical campness - which I love.

Of course, this wouldn’t be an interview with Penhaligon’s if we didn’t ask…what is your favourite scent?

I love the Endymion scent because I am a real bergamot fan. It's quite hard to find a perfume for me because the packaging matters a lot. After all, this is something you touch every morning, so you don't want to hate it. Penhaligon's has the perfect bottle with the ribbon detail - it's classic but fresh and looks great in the bathroom.

SHOP SOLARIS

Peruse Gergei's work on his Instagram and website below:

Instagram: @gergeierdei

Website: gergeierdei.com

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