CAPTURING THE NOTE - WITH JULIE PLUCHET
We sit down with Senior Perfumer, Julie Pluchet, to discuss the inspiration behind Highgrove Bouquet.
What was the inspiration behind Highgrove Bouquet? How did it evolve from an idea, into the fully formed fragrance?
The main inspiration behind the fragrance was the scent of Tilia Petiolaris, also known as weeping silver lime - a tree that grows in Highgrove Gardens. I discovered this tree for the first time when I visited the grounds. The scent is very powerful and narcotic and everybody at Highgrove Gardens looks forward to it blossoming every year.
We used the latest technology to capture the real scent of the tree in full bloom at Highgrove Gardens. Then, I transformed it into a complex and sophisticated fragrance to recreate my experience when I discovered its scent.
Fragrance is very personal, but how do you hope that Highgrove Bouquet will make the wearer feel?
I would like the wearer to be transported to a dream garden, full of greenery and blooming flowers on a bright sunny day in Summer. The fragrance conveys the magic of nature and has an element of feel-good and comfort, as it captures the fleeting and elusive scent of blooming sun-warmed silver leaved lime.
This fragrance was created in collaboration and support of the Prince’s Foundation, helping to fund the charity’s training and education programmes including those in heritage crafts, traditional arts, horticulture, fashion and textiles, and sustainable food and farming. What does this collaboration mean to you?
I feel very proud to have created a fragrance that not only evokes feelings for an individual, but also has a positive social impact.
Highgrove Bouquet has notes of weeping silver lime, mimosa and cedarwood – what do each of these ingredients bring to the fragrance?
Weeping silver lime has wonderful green, floral, powdery and animalic facets. It blends well with aromatic and floral notes to enhance the natural character of the fragrance.
Mimosa enriches the floral accord with green tones and gives a comforting powdery texture.
Cedarwood adds a woody dimension and long-lastingness to the base, bringing sophistication.
Can you give us some insight into the process of creating Highgrove Bouquet? What sort of research, discovery, dreaming went into creating the fragrance?
We conducted our latest sampling technology to gather information about the beautifully fragrant flowers that bloom on the silver leaf lime tree every summer in Highgrove Gardens. We sampled the air around the blooming flower to capture the aroma chemicals. This information allowed me to have a starting point to build the fragrance around along with taking inspiration from the memories and emotions I experienced during my visit to Highgrove Gardens.
Does Highgrove Bouquet remind you of any different memories or experiences in your own life?
The Silver Lime Tree was a new discovery, so the fragrance doesn’t evoke any personal nostalgic feeling, but the powdery accord brings me back to the childhood memory of my grandmother who used to wear these types of fragrances. The memories and feelings these types of accord evoke for me is one of the reasons I feel drawn to using them in my creations.
What is your olfactory style, and raw materials that you enjoy working with?
I like to combine classic, almost nostalgic, structures with a modern approach. My obsession for perfectly well-balanced fragrances could define my style as harmonious and refined.
I enjoy a lot working with ingredients such as cedarwood and orris as they bring a powdery, natural and elegant character to fragrances.
What would be the ideal scents to layer with Highgrove Bouquet, for extra depth?
It could be layered with other Penhaligon’s floral fragrances such as Lily of the Valley or Orange Blossom to create a warm floral solar scent. Or combined with Quercus it would enhance the summery feel creating a fresh floral cologne.
What does the brand Penhaligon’s mean to you?
For me, Penhaligon’s implies impeccable British Heritage. Qualitative fragrances with a British twist and an element of history yet eccentric and contemporary – they’re unlike any other brand I’ve ever worked with and their uniqueness is something I wanted to translate in Highgrove Bouquet.
Why is fragrance a good vehicle for storytelling?
Fragrances make people feel something. They evoke memories both consciously and unconsciously through emotions.
Could you give any advice or tips on how you should apply a fragrance?
The use of perfume depends on each person. Some people want to be noticed and leave a trail while others prefer to be discreet and wear a more intimate scent. Not necessarily about application but something that lots forget is to store the fragrances in a cool place and with no changes in light or humidity to ensure every wear is as good as the first.
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